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Little Ethiopia brings East Africa to the heart
of Shaw Photo: Celeste McCall
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One of the benefits of living in Midcity is the presence of Shaw’s “Little Ethiopia,” along Ninth Street NW. The other day, we counted almost a dozen Shaw establishments serving the spicy cooking of this East African nation. Ethiopian cooking is perhaps best known for injera, slightly fermented pancake made from teff, a type of grain (actually a grass). The spongy bread is used for scooping up spicy wot–or stew. Wot’s firepower comes from berberre, a heady mixture of chilies, ginger, cloves, coriander, allspice, rue berries and ajwani, mostly grown in Ethiopia and neighboring Eritrea.
We decided on lunch at a restaurant called Little Ethiopia, 1924 Ninth St. NW. We’d peeked in this homey eatery before, but until now had not dined here. After descending some very steep steps (the upstairs office prints the Ethiopian Yellow Pages, which serves the metropolitan area’s estimated 80,000 Ethiopians), we found ourselves in what could be an Ethiopian home. Walls were covered with portraits and hangings; chairs and stools were carved from what looked like ebony. Diners’ tables, which resembled inverted woven baskets, were separated with thin bamboo curtains. Overhead were canopies woven from twigs.
A lively bamboo-covered bar toward the back is almost always fully occupied. Operated by Yehune Belay and his sister Nunu Tesfaye (who presides over the kitchen) Little Ethiopia opened last March.
Seated at a round “basket” table, we ordered an assortment of typical dishes: A bright vegetable salad (in which rings of fiery jalepeno peppers lurked), followed by a combination platter with cubed lamb, beef, a succulent chicken leg and a pair of vegetables: ginger-scented yellow lentil puree and collard greens, all resting on a large round of the spongy injera. Our server provided rolls of extra bread for scooping up the savory victuals. We also sampled Ethiopian wine, which we found rather sweet. Other wines and beers are also available. Little Ethiopia is open daily, and also operates a lively nightclub. For more information call 202-319-1924 or visit www.littleethiopianrestaurantdc.com. Among other nearby Ethiopian eateries are: Queen of Sheba Restaurant, 1503 Ninth St. NW (202-232-7272); Etete Ethiopian Cuisine, 1942 Ninth St. NW (202-232-7600); Shashemene Restaurant, 1909 Ninth St. NW (202-328-2223).
Habesha, Ethiopian Market and Carryout
Thus inspired, I thought I might try my hand at Ethiopian cooking. So I visited Habesha, an Ethiopian Market and Carryout, located down the street at 1919 Ninth St. NW. Inside I found an assortment of ingredients, including large containers of the berberre spice blend, as well as different colored lentils, other condiments and stacks of injera. Habesha is also a café, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, with American fare as well as ethnic specialities. No, I didn’t buy anything that day, but plan to return soon. Open daily, Habesha also operates a catering service. Call 202-232-1919 or go to www.habeshamarket.com.
Cork Market opens
At long last, Cork Market & Tasting Room, the retail spinoff of the Cork Wine Bar, opened last month at 1805 14th St. NW. The upscale, 1,200 square-foot shop, operated by Diane Gross and Khalid Pitts, sells the same vintages people love at the couple’s Cork Wine Bar up the street (1720 14th St. NW). Cork Market’s approximately 300 wines–lined up along the brick-lined walls-- are mainly European, with a sprinkling of New World selections. Cork also carries artisan cheeses, Trickling Spring heavy cream, lamb meatballs, olive oils, vinegars, breads, jams and spreads, as well as tempting deli sandwiches, many ready-made for a quick lunch. Breads and pastries–including a decadent-looking Paisley Fig Cork Torte, are made in-house.
Presiding over all this yummy food is chef Kristin Hutter, whom you might remember from her stints at Citronelle, Black Salt and Black Market Bistro in Garrett Park, Maryland.
Cork Market is open daily; call 202-265-2676 or visit www.corkdc.com.
New Brunch at Masa 14
Masa 14, the sprightly newcomer at 1825 14th St. NW, is now serving brunch. Thanks to Japanese-born partner Kaz Okochi (who also operates Kaz sushi Bistro downtown), Richard Sandoval (Modern Mexican Restaurants), and chef de cuisine Antonio Burrell, the midday repast has an Asian-Latino twist: tenderloin Benedict with scallion kimchi pancakes, poached egg and green chile Hollandaise; breakfast pizza with bacon, eggs, Gruyere cheese and pico de gallo. You get the idea. Complementing these dishes are the Galleata (biscotti liquor and orange juice); Clamato (vodka, tomato and clam juice); Masa Mimosa (Champagne, mango and blood orange juice). Brunch goes from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.; call 202-328-1414 or visit www.masa14.com.
Coming soon
Meanwhile, in Logan Circle, Mark Kuller of Proof (Penn Quarter) is planning to unveil Estadio (Spanish for Stadium) at 1520 14th St. NW, in the space vacated by the Garden District plant store. The 100-seat newcomer will showcase the cuisine of Northern Spain. Proof’s chef, Haidar Karoum, is expected to head the open display kitchen. Proof's wine and drinks mavens, Sebastian Zutant and Adam Bernbach, will oversee mainly the mainly Spanish wine list and other potables. Look for Estadio sometime next spring or summer.....
And, along the U Street corridor, Ian Hilton, who already operates Restaurant Marvin in Columbia Heights, is working on a “new gastropub,” to be called The Brixton, complete with a rooftop garden, we’re told. Look for the pub later this year at 901 U St. NW. |
