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Crisp-crusted pizzas–with myriad toppings--emerge from Potenza’s
6,000-pound wood-burning oven. Photo: Andrew Lightman.
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President Obama and Michelle haven’t dined yet at Potenza, but we think they should check it out. The First Family would not have far to travel, as this delightful, Tuscan-style trattoria and bakery is located just a few blocks from the White House. Open since last spring, Potenza is part of the Stir Restaurant Group (which also includes Zola and Zola Wine & Kitchen, in Penn Quarter), headed by CEO/founder Dan Mesches. Potenza is named after Mesches’ grandmother, Columbina Potenza, who was born in Southern Italy.
Designed by CORE, the 10,000 square foot enterprise has a bakery, salami counter, raw bar and 6,000 pound pizza oven, all incorporated in the historic Woodward Building, which dates from 1911 and which houses luxury apartments on its upper floors. Some of Potenza’s tiles, marble flooring and other features are original. The entrance and part of the dining area was the Woodward’s foyer, retaining the lovely marble floors.
Headed by executive chef/partner Bryan Moscatello, Potenza’s long display kitchen swoops up one side of the dining area, where a dozen or more chefs are busy assembling pizzas, ready to slide into the woodburning oven. Dangling in the background are garlands of garlic and dried peppers, as well as strings of house-made salami. (Almost all the cured meats and salamis are made in house, we were told, and the bakery turns out the restaurant’s breads, pastas and pastries.) Dining room walls are lined with colorful ceramic plates; food arrives on equally attractive tableware. The cozy bar is topped with what looks like marble. Patrons sip vino and specialty drinks, while monitoring CNN on several TV screens.
At a pleasant Friday luncheon (the place was packed and we had a 15-minute wait), we were presented with dish towels in lieu of regular cloth napkins -- a homey touch. A basket of complimentary bread and nicely-salted bread sticks appeared with an agreeable puddle of olive oil, balsamic vinegar, garlic, capers and spices. We restrained ourselves from over-dipping in order to save room for more to come.
From the pizza listing of four or five combinations, we chose quatro stagioni, a generous, oblong-shaped pie with delicious charred edges that was sprinkled with porchetta (succulent roast pork beloved by Tuscans as a mid-day pick-me-up, usually accompanied by a glass of Chianti), black olives, artichokes mushrooms and plenty of gooey cheese. A pizza (only one size is offered, priced at $17), easily serves two people as an entree, more if ordered as a first course. Pizzas come with a tiny dish of ground red pepper and spices, which deliver just enough firepower. Since we had other food coming, we took most of our pizza home.
To counteract the cold, dreary afternoon, my husband Peter ordered a steaming bowl of riboletta Tuscana, a traditional, tummy-warming montage of bartolotti (pale brown beans), vegetables, greens (usually black kale or escarole), bread and spices. However, we found Potenza’s rendition rather bland.
Fried calamari, which really tasted like squid, arrived with a zippy puttanesca sauce. “Puttanesca” actually means “little lady of the evening,” and the recipe – a melange of tomatoes, capers, olives and anchovies – supposedly originated in Southern Italy when the working women took the day off to cook pasta for their favorite clients. (Anyway, it makes a good story.) Potenza’s other midday options include sandwiches and salads as well as salami and cheese boards.
Potenza is even more fun at dinner. A recent evening repast began with an appetizer of four deliciously crunchy cod fritters (ideal for sharing), accompanied by a pool of parsley aioli.
Other antipasti include mussels with pancetta and shrimp-stuffed calamari.
Just ask Peter, and he will roll his eyes and confirm that yes, my favorite pasta dish is linguine alla vongole– linguine and clams–and I order it all too often. Potenza’s version was a winner. Besides the dozen or more freshly-shucked clams, the al dente noodles were tossed with smoky pancetta, garlic and olive oil. I wanted to lick the plate.
We were impressed to see pici (sometimes spelled pinci), a sort of fat Tuscan spaghetti, not often encountered this side of the Atlantic. In Italy, many stores carry special rolling pins to make pici. Potenza’s pici is sauced with white anchovies, tarragon pesto and foccacia bread crumbs. Another pasta is tortelloni di congiglio–rabbit and truffle stuffed pasta, with white asparagus sauce, and pecorino.
Seafood entrees have included olive-oil-poached monkfish with pancetta, artichokes and olives and halibut dressed with olive oil and spritzed with lemon.
Potenza is known for its wine listing, and we were not disappointed. Ordering by-the-glass, we chose a sprightly Pinot Grigio and a Castello Banfi Sangiovese blend, the latter priced at a mere $6. But even better–and slightly pricier-- was Salice Salentino Riserva ($9), a mellow red from Italy’s Puligia region. (Potenza’s vino is so good that we decided to buy some to take home. No problem. Potenza operates a well stocked, sensibly-priced wine shop just around the corner on 15th street NW, where we selected a Proscecco, Pinot Grigio and a Chianti.)
From Potenza’s extensive dessert menu, from which diners may order in the dining area or in the bakery/ice cream parlor, we chose a trio of sorbettos: raspberry, lemon and pumpkin spice. The sorbet was as good or better than renditions we had in Italy. (A couple of years ago, when we were in Umbria for a family wedding, Peter did not consider his day complete without his 5 o’clock gelato or sorbet fix.)
What makes Potenza especially appealing -- especially with its downtown location near the McPherson Square (Blue/Orange line) Metro) --is that it covers all bases: a quick lunch in the bakery or bar, a leisurely midday or evening repast, and even a carryout. Prices are reasonable, with most entrees in the $15 to $22 range.
And, we are hoping the First Family visits Potenza soon.
Potenza
1430 H St. NW
202-638-4444
Restaurant hours:
Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Sunday dinner 3 to 10 p.m. |
