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It seems that every time we visit Rumberos, the stylish Latino restaurant in the heart of Columbia Heights, it’s raining. Our first encounter was on a chilly, soggy spring evening. After shaking the water from our umbrellas, our quartet of hungry, water-logged diners settled into a cozy table by the window. Now three years old, the restaurant is ensconced in the Tivoli Square complex, which oddly includes a Ruby Tuesday’s, as well as shops, a bank and Nori Asian Bistro and Sushi Bar. The sushi bar was once the entrance of the historic Tivoli Theater, which closed in 1976. The Gala Hispanic Theatre also occupies part of the renovated space.
While staying warm and comfortable, we could observe busy neighborhood foot traffic passing along 14th street. Inside, Rumberos was suffused with warm crimson tones, punctuated with Latino masks, gilt mirrors, colorful paintings and photos by Latin American artists. Further exploration revealed ornate columns reclaimed from the Tivoli Theater, which has been redeveloped as a mixed-use complex. That evening, live jazz provided a pleasant background without being obtrusive.
Where to start? With mojitos, of course, which are among the best we’ve tasted north of Miami. Cool and tangy, the frosty drinks contain plenty of lime and fresh mint. We also shared a bottle of Argentine Malbec, a relative bargain at $36. House white wine–offered by the glass for under $10--is pleasant. Most of the wines are South American.
Owner/executive chef Angel Gustavo Huapalla’s menu emphasizes Cuban cuisine, but includes specialities from his native Argentina and other South American nations. Huapalla visited Havana for a culinary event six years ago, a gathering that attracted 800 chefs from all over the globe. He was thrilled when the president of the culinary organization told him he was the only non-Cuban who could cook Cuban. ”That honored me a lot,” said Huapalla, who arrived in the United States 20 years ago.
Taking various forms, yucca emerges frequently from Rumberos’ kitchen. Similar to potatoes -- also native to South America -- these tropical tubers are usually boiled and mashed into croquettes and stuffed with Mexican cheese, chicken or shredded beef. Platanos–those green plantains you see all over the neighborhood’s numerous Hispanic markets–are filled with similar goodies.
Among Rumberos’ extensive tapas (appetizer) lineup, our favorite was torrejita de espinaca, little spinach patties enfolded with cheese, garlic, shallots and parsley. Another winner was grilled calamari enlivened with a piquant sherry sauce.
Having visited Venezuela a few years ago, we immediately noticed the inclusion of arepas which are crispy corn cakes with various fillings, often served at breakfast. Choosing from Rumberos’ options, we settled on arepa de aquacate–a corncake filled with avocado, red bell peppers strips, tomatoes and onions, bound together with sour cream and mayo. However, we found the arepas themselves rather soggy and the filling bland.
Given the kitchen’s Cuban focus, we were not surprised that ropas viejas–literally “old clothes” and a Cuban mainstay--was the star of the show. As a fellow diner savored the homespun dish of shredded beef simmered forever in a spicy sauce, he declared it “spectacular.” Our only real disappointment was puerco pina, pork morsels in pineapple juice. While the fruity sauce added zing to the dish, the meat itself was dry and overcooked.
Sopa mariscos, Latino-style bouillabaisse on the soup list, easily sufficed as an entree. Swimming in the savory broth was a pair of humongous mussels, several shrimp, succulent scallops and surprisingly tender calamari circlets. A winner all around. Also from the sea, pescado entomatado (red snapper in tomatoes) was a picturesque mound of flaky fish heaped with bell pepper strips, tomato and onion, crowned with a thatch of cilantro. The combination tasted as good as it looked.
For diehard carnivores, the menu lists several Argentine-style beef dishes (Rumberos serves Certified Angus Beef), which practically melt in your mouth. No steak knives necessary here.
A bountiful parrilla criolla (for two) is a mixed grill with flank steak, ribs, sausages and sweetbreads. Entrees arrive with an appealing plate of white rice, black beans and yellow plantains.
That evening, dessert choices were limited to two (more on weekends, we were told), so we ordered flan de coco. The quivery flan was different from the coarse-textured version we associate with Cuba and Latin America. Not too sweet, the dessert was infused with the right amount of coconut. The other option was pears simmered in red wine and cinnamon, paired with a scoop of house-made strawberry ice cream studded with frozen berries. Spoons in hand, the four of us attacked both desserts with gusto.
A recent luncheon provided a different but equally enjoyable experience. Again it was drizzling. Three of us were ushered past the handsome copper-topped bar which sweeps along one side of the 140-seat dining area. Luncheon choices are limited, with salads, soups, sandwiches and a few main dishes. Black bean soup, another Cuban staple, was well seasoned and attractively adorned with a circlet of minced scallions.
By far the best midday deal is churasquito a la Cubana, grilled New York strip steak capped with a fried egg. Ordered medium-rare, the meat arrived too rare. But our server, a personable young woman from Venezuela, quickly whisked the steak away and returned it perfectly cooked.
We also enjoyed ensalada de remolachoa–a colorful mosaic of fresh beets, potatoes and hard boiled egg slices, lightly dressed with olive oil and vinegar. We wanted to try ceviche, but that marinated raw fish appetizer was not available at lunch that day.
The Cuban sandwich–the traditional roast pork, ham, pickle and mustard pressed between buttered slices of bread--tasted better than most northern versions but not as good as renditions we’ve had in South Florida.
“When I opened Rumberos, I was like a little child with new chairs,” said Huapalla, who also owns Rumba Café in Adams Morgan. He brought most of Rumberos’ furnishings from Argentina. “I want to promote everything that is Latin American,” he added. “I love gastronomy....It’s important to love what you are doing.”
We think he’s doing it well.
Rumberos is not cheap. Dinner for four came to $185, and a three-person lunch was $75. Our service each time was attentive and cheerful. but not hovering. |
