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Sports, Yes, but Come For the Food
When Nellie’s Sports Bar celebrated its third anniversary last month, we discovered the kitchen’s arepas, little corn cakes similar to Salvadorean pupusas that we had tasted in Venezuela. Wacky, funky Nellie’s–which reminds us of offbeat bars along H St. NE, marked its birthday with cake, champagne and drink specials.
On a recent Saturday, Peter and I headed to Nellie’s. A Lady Gaga video blared on the Direct TV channel as we settled into the downstairs bar and ordered beers (Blue Moon, Bass Ale). Walls are plastered with photos (including monumental images of women in circa 1890s garb), sports memorabilia and fraternity paddles.. Colorful Chinese lanterns dangle from the ceiling, as fans twirl lazily above. The spacious roof deck, is really hopping at night, when the space resembles a colorful carnival, with festive lights strung everywhere.
But at lunchtime I was after arepas, and was not disappointed. Although primarily a night club–popular with the gay community–Nellie’s serves good pub grub with international flourishes. My arepa–bigger than the cakes I encountered in South America–came with butter, sour cream, a side of sweet plantains and choice of additional fillings. I chose pollo Criollo (shredded chicken), cheddar cheese and slices of perfectly ripe avocado. We were not surprised to learn that the tasty arepas are created by chef Maria Rondon, who comes from Venezuela. Other Latino offerings: empanadas, quesadillas and nachos.
Other gringo options: Cobb salad, burgers, sandwiches, Caesar salad and buckets of onion rings. And, would you believe, edamame? To work off those calories, Nellie’s Tuesday evenings bring “drag” bingo; fourth Thursdays mean “ping pong madness,” and Nellie’s fans get together for Nats games. Prices are sensible; lunch for two with a beer apiece came to $40. Open daily, Nellie’s is located at 900 U St. NW; call 202-332-6355 or visit www.NelliesSportsBar.com.
Wine about it
Directly across the street from Nellie’s, we found a different scene: Dickson Wine Bar, which opened last spring at 903 U Street, NW. Don’t look for a sign out front, only the name of the three-story building itself, Dickson. We were seated in a corner by the window on the upper level, and it was – no other way to put it – noisy! Floors and steps appear to be made of concrete, and walls are covered with empty wine bottles. From the mainly organic wine list, I chose Sangiovese San Polino Sant Antimo ($12) while Peter sipped Pinot Grigio Tre Fili ($8).
After sharing a $3 dish of marinated olives, we scanned the tapas list. Concocted from mainly domestic ingredients, most plates could be light entrees. Peter was intrigued by banh mi–a Vietnamese sandwich. Banh mi is actually an Indo-Chinese baguette baked with wheat and rice flour, perhaps a holdover from French Colonial days. Nowadays it usually refers to a sub-like sandwich, often filled with pork belly, Asian sausage, pickled carrots, cucumbers and cilantro. Dickson’s version features Amish chicken breast. Delicious and filling.
I ordered the beef carpaccio salad. Sliced paper thin, the silken-textured meat arrived with a few shavings of Parmesan, resting on a bed of arugula and too many capers. Dickson also offers a charcuterie (including house-made duck proscuitto) and a cheese selection. I decided on Ibores Pimenton, a firm goat cheese from Spain. Presented on a wooden cheese board, the cheese was escorted by nut-studded bread and piquant pepper jelly. We left Dickson Wine Bar satisfied, with our hearing still intact and plans to return.
While parking is possible weeknights, we recommend Metro. Dickson is near the U Street/African-Amer Civil |War Memorial/Cardozo (Green, Yellow Lines). Open for dinner only, closed Sunday, Dickson is located at 903 U St. NW. Call 202-332-1779.
D’Vine Bakery and Café
Near the Washington Convention Center (Mount Vernon Triangle), we revisited Chatman’s D’Vine Bakery and Café. This charming eatery is the creation of Debra Chatman, who brings an eclectic background to her enterprise. Originally from Columbia, South Carolina, Debra served in the Air Force before working as a paralegal. Deciding to follow her lifelong passion for baking, she launched her café two years ago. “But it feels like 20 million years,” she laughed, blaming the bad economy for a slowdown in business. However, things have looked up, as folks stop on the way home from work to purchase a treat, maybe a red velvet or key lime cupcake, or sweet potato pie.
Chatman’s ambience matches Debra’s bubbly personality. Walls are painted a pleasant lime green–perhaps to match her signature key lime cupcakes. A few glass-topped tables seat patrons who sip homemade sweet tea with Carolina-style chicken salad, barbecued pulled brisket, piled on homebaked bread. Open daily, Chatman’s is located at 1239 9th St NW. Open daily, hours vary. Call 202-290-3681.
New on U
Settling into the basement space vacated by Polly’s, Desperados Burgers & Bar brings Big Easy-style burgers popularized at New Orleans’ Port of Call, near the French Quarter. Besides the thick burger patties (with various toppings), Desperado’s serves loaded baked potatoes, beer, wine and “dangerous” mixed drinks. Wrought ironwork encircles outdoor tables. Inside, polished wood floors, exposed brick walls and fireplaces exude a been-here-forever feeling. Desperados is located at 1342 U St. NW; call 202-299-0443.
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