|
Executive Chef David Varley
slices into a fragrant lobster
pot. Photo: Andrew Lightman
|
Recession? What recession? We were on our way to dinner at the year-old Bourbon Steak, ensconced in the beautifully renovated Four Seasons, at Georgetown’s east end. One would never guess that our economy was in the doldrums as we strolled into the hotel’s marble-lined lobby. Serene, “Masters of the Universe” types were lolling in comfy chairs before the gas-fueled fireplace, scanning the Wall Street Journal. Chic twenty-and thirty-somethings were sipping cocktails in the sleekly handsome bar. A few eyes were turned to the flat screen TV above, watching the hapless Redskins chalk up yet another loss.
Before claiming our table, we peeked outside, where a dozen or so customers sat around large, gravel-lined “fire pits,” quaffing drinks while awaiting a table or simply enjoying the fall weather.
Years ago, the Bourbon Steak lobby space was the Garden Terrace, the site of fancy afternoon teas. The interior was totally redone last year, and we hardly recognized it. Designed by the Rockwell Group of New York, the 5,400 square foot Bourbon Steak seats 144, plus another 32 outside. Bourbon Steak is the creation of Michael Mina, who owns 16 restaurants strung across the nation, in places like San Francisco, Miami, Detroit, and Las Vegas. His cookbook is prominently displayed in the lobby. Locally, Bourbon Steak’s executive chef David Varley is known for his butter-poaching cooking method for contemporary American dishes.
The ambience is welcoming, with warm earth tones. However, the elevated decibel level made it difficult to hear our waiter’s recitation of the daily specials.
We first dined at Bourbon Steak last winter and again this past summer, when we visited the chef’s flourishing garden near the C&O Canal. (A rooftop garden is in the planning stages, and is expected to open in the spring.) We are happy to report that Bourbon Steak’s quality has remained top-notch.
As before, our server brought complementary herbed pomme frites (cooked in an oil mixture which includes duck fat), escorted by a trio of tangy sauces: barbecue, creme fraiche with onion, house-made ketchup. Truffled rolls were presented in a miniature cast iron skillet. It is easy to be tempted to fill up, but save room for the dinner to come. From the extensive wine list, we ordered a glass of Argentine Malbec and a Sauvignon Blanc.
We shared a wedge salad, which the kitchen thoughtfully placed on two white rectangular plates. Ingredients were attractively arranged in lettuce cups, topped with Maytag blue cheese, razor-thin radish slices, tiny red onion rings, and little cubes of what tasted like pancetta, and napped with a tangy ranch-like dressing.
Oak-fired Millbrook venison ($42) was fork tender, perhaps the best venison I’ve ever tasted. The perfectly cooked (medium rare) meat was sprinkled with a smattering of tiny Oregon blueberries and matsutake mushrooms. However, the promised Brussels sprouts amounted to mere slivers. When we complained, our server promptly brought us a generous dish of the vegetable, with compliments and apologies from the kitchen. Peter, who loves Brussels sprouts, was delighted.
Then Peter tucked into his cobia ($32), a firm white fish similar to swordfish but milder which swims in the warm waters off of Belize. The fish was garnished with a grilled lemon half. Lobster pot pie, composed of a two-pound crustacean, vegetables and crowned with puff pastry, is the only entree served in all of Mina’s restaurants, we were told. Other seafood options, which change regularly, include sea scallops, sea trout and big eye tuna.
From the wood-burning grill section, diners may choose from a variety of prime beef cuts: 10-ounce skirt steak; 10-ounce filet mignon; a hefty 28-ounce porterhouse; pricy American Wagyu steaks, and even pricier Japanese (Kobe) Wagyu, which can add $145 to your dining tab.
As everything was ala carte, we ordered a side dish of truffled macaroni and cheese. This sinfully rich dish was definitely not our mother’s mac-and-cheese. Served in a miniature cast iron skillet, the noodles were redolent of cheese and those wonderful black truffles. All it needed was a light sprinkling of salt to pull the flavors together.
Pastry chef Santanna Salas has recently arrived from Mina’s Vegas restaurant, MGM’s SEABLUE. Salas, who has appeared on the Food Channel, has created such delectable childhood dreams as coconut candy bar (milk chocolate, praline caramel, almonds) and passion fruit panna cotta. A house favorite is Michael’s root beer float with sassafras ice cream, root beer sorbet, and chocolate chip cookies.
Bourbon Steak is an expensive, special occasion destination. Our dinner for two came to $150, before tip. Service was impeccable, starting with an attentive voice on the phone when we made our reservations, the host, and concluding with our excellent waiter, Alex.
A less expensive experience is lunch at Bourbon Steak’s casual lounge. Seated at the glossy black-topped bar, Peter partook of the recently introduced “Business at BOURBON STEAK over Burgers,’’ which allows bar patrons to select a burger, side dish, brownie and non-alcoholic beverage, all for $21. The menu is available Monday through Friday, from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. From the burger listing, Peter chose an Asian-accented salmon burger, enlivened with cilantro, ginger, scallions and fish sauce, served on a standard bun. (He could have ordered a steak or turkey burger, or falafel burger, made with tahini, tomatoes and parsley, a recipe from Michael Mina’s mother.) Other mid-day options include Amish chicken salad, shrimp “Louis” and Nova Scotia halibut fish and chips. Peter’s lunch came to $46, including a spicy bloody Mary, made with Ketel One vodka and garnished with a pearl onion and olive.
Bourbon Steak also offers a “nightly market menu,” with appetizer, entree and dessert for $59. Many items from this list also appear on the regular ala carte menu. Kennedy Center patrons may avail themselves of Bourbon Steak’s three-course, pre-theater dinner (also $59), Sunday through Thursday at 6 p.m., Friday, Saturday at 5:30 p.m. Management promises to get diners out by 7 p.m., so no one misses curtain time.
On Christmas day, Bourbon Steak will serve an ala carte dinner menu from 5:30 to 10 p.m.; closed for lunch. Bourbon Steak does not have weekend lunch or brunch. The Four Seasons’ former flagship restaurant Seasons, in the lower level, now serves breakfast (seven days), plus Saturday lunch, and Sunday brunch. It also hosts “special events.”
If you dine early in the week, parking is possible, mainly at metered spots and in garages. You may also take Metro (Blue/Orange Line), get off at GW University/Foggy Bottom, and walk across the bridge. |
