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The contents of a delivery box from Washington’s Green Grocer. Photo: courtesy of Washington’s Green Grocer.

After devouring Barbara Kingsolver’s “Animal, Vegetable, Miracle” for our monthly book club, my friends and I shared a few of the things that we had learned from this locavore manifesto:  The sex lives of turkeys are hilarious. The food processing techniques of agribusiness are not. And the obvious conviction to eat more real, local food sounded pretty - well - overwhelming.

We found ourselves asking questions like, “How do you weigh out competing principles such as health, environmental stewardship, food justice and corporate ethics with the equally nagging values of convenience, time, money, and spoiled-rotten tastebuds?”  OR “How does a busy, single professional wean off of cheese whiz sandwiches and start eating celeriac?” OR  “What is celeriac and how do you cook it?” 

Despite the dilemmas and complexities, we all felt that we were ready to jump on the food-wagon and take a (baby) step or two toward eating more local farm foods and fewer  “processed food products.”  So Anna has decided to garden for the first time this spring.  Trudy is going to pay more attention to where her food comes from. I’m going to try my hand at food preservation.  Christina is going to experiment with new recipes for local produce and Jill will continue leading the way as the foodie we know and love.

With our new local food goals in mind, the discussion naturally turned toward Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) as a potential solution.  Most of us were familiar with the concept, but only a couple of us had actually tried one.  Simply put, a farmer offers what they produce to the public and interested consumers purchase a “membership” or “subscription,” receiving regular “shares” of food throughout the growing season. 

According to the USDA’s National Agricultural Library, CSAs originated in Switzerland and Japan and migrated to the US in the 1980s. Though there is no official count by the government, www.localharvest.org currently boasts a database of over 2,500 programs operating nationally.

On their “real food, real farmers, real community” themed website, Local Harvest discusses the advantages, risks, and variations of such a venture.

Farmers’ benefits include securing customers before the long hours of fieldwork begin and receiving financial investments early to help with cash flow. Consumers get exposure to new ultra-fresh, vitamin-packed foods and learn more ways of preparing them.

But as with any investment, there is risk involved, from produce going to waste because you didn’t have the time or creativity to prepare it to a freak hailstorm massacring the tomato plants.  However local food lovers insist that the idea of shared risk is part of what creates a sense of community between members and farmers.  You live through the natural seasons together and learn to make do with what you have. 

As the popularity of CSAs grows, so do the offerings. Some include meats, dairy, eggs, flowers and homemade goods with their produce. Some require pick up at the farm, others deliver to drop sites, while still others bring the food right to your door.  And in the name of customer service, some CSAs allow you to express personal choice concerning what ends up in your share and may even welcome purchasing week-to-week rather than buying an entire season. 

Besides the farmers at Eastern market and the Freshfarm market on H Street (open May- November), there are an abundance of farms that deliver to sites and even directly to homes on the Hill (see sidebar).

So the local food movement is already happening right here on the Hill.  And you know what’s going to keep it going?  Wannabe, mediocre and seasoned locavores like you, me, and the book club gals. 

Jill is signing up for another year with Jug Bay Market because, as the co-owner of a small business herself, she loves to put money back into the local economy and get beautiful flowers and healthy vegetables in return.  Christina and her housemates are going to try Washington’s Green Grocer because it seems like a good balance of health and convenience for young professionals. And my family will continue ordering from the Grassfed on the Hill farmer because we love supporting family farmers who work hard to produce healthy and delicious products like nutrient dense eggs and chocolate ice cream!

Hey, buying local food may involve some sacrifices, but taste certainly isn’t one of them.

Hill Resources for Locally, Organically Produced Food
Be sure to visit the websites for more information including great recipe ideas, farm visit opportunities, and membership details.  Sign up quickly because availability is limited!) 

Garden Mountain Farm - http://www.gardenmountain.com/index.html - These Virginia farmers provide quarterly deliveries of pasture-raised chicken, beef, pork, lamb, and rabbit.

Grassfed on the Hill - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/grassfedonthehill/ - This yahoo group offers weekly access all year to fresh milk, pastured meats and eggs and traditional, fermented foods made by Pennsylvania Amish farmers. 

Jug Bay Market - http://jugbaymarketgarden.wordpress.com/ - A family farm 15 miles from DC delivers weekly shares of local veggies, herbs, berries and flowers to Christ Church in SE during the summer season. 

One Acre Farm - http://1acrefarm.com/ - Montgomery County farmer Michael Protas grows pesticide-free veggies that can be hand picked at a home on the Hill through the summer season. 

Orchard Country Produce - http://orchcountry.com/8.html - The Keckler family in PA brings a wide variety of sustainable produce, meat, honey, baked goods, etc. to be picked up from April through November at the Tuesday afternoon DOT farmers market.

Spiritual Food CSA - www.spiritualfoodcsa.org - This Bethesda-based food cooperative delivers biodynamic, mostly local food including veggies, delicious breads, dried fruit and grains year round to a Hill home.

South Mountain Creamery - http://www.southmountaincreamery.com/home.php - Known for their glass bottled milk, this Maryland family farm brings dairy, meat, and even fresh, frozen dinners to your door.   

South Mountain Veggies - www.southmountainveggies.com - An offshoot of the creamery, the Brusco family brings 100% local produce during the summer and 100% organic produce during the winter straight to your door.