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Looks like the “Avenue” is getting some muscle power–er, make that mussel power. Teddy Folkman, chef/owner of the Belgian-themed Granville Moore's, known for his tasty moules et frites and a finalist on the Next Food Network Star, has taken on the kitchen at the Capitol Lounge, on Pennsylvania Avenue SE.
Folkman, a personable 33-year-old bachelor, will certainly keep himself busy, shuttling between the Capitol Lounge and Granville Moore’s (on H Street NE), where he has been co-owner/top toque for the past two years. Both establishments belong to Joe Englert’s 14-restaurant empire, which stretches around the Hill, concentrating along H Street NE’s Atlas District including the brand new, “visually stimulating” Country Club. Englert’s often zany enterprises – including Andalusian Dog, Insect Club, Zig Zag and State of the Union – also helped revitalize the formerly blighted U Street NW.
He purchased Capitol Lounge in the mid-1990s, and also owns the Pour House up the street, once a gritty bar called Politiki. Now about 15 years old, the Capitol Lounge, basically a watering hole for congressional staffers, has been showing its age.
“About six months ago, we decided that Capitol Lounge should grow up,” said Folkman. “It’s always been a pub with its own identity, and we wanted to improve it without sacrificing its character. We wanted to bring in some new menu items without alienating our regular clientele.”
While retaining the menu’s burgers, pizza, quesadillas, wings and beloved chicken tenders (“The tenders are our biggest seller. Why change a good thing?”), Folkman is introducing “small portions” of his acclaimed moules fromage bleu – mussels with blue cheese, bacon, shallots and white wine. You might recall that in March 2008, Folkman’s mussels beat out Bobby Flay’s coconut-poblamo mussels on his Throwdown with Bobby Flay Food Network show. (We’ve tasted this dish and see why it bested Bobby Flay’s dish.) Folkman has also added goat cheese poppers with cured pork belly, preferring the latter, which he makes himself, to regular bacon, and believe me, it’s delicious. Reuben sandwiches are made with house-cured corned beef brisket and homemade sauerkraut.
Capitol Lounge has received a thorough–if not extreme—makeover. New coolers have arrived to hold 70-plus kinds of beer, including 30 on draft. Walls and floors of both levels have been scrubbed, repainted and refinished. As Folkman and I conversed, artist/employee Martina Pelot was perched precariously–one foot on a table, the other on a chair -- carefully applying black paint to exposed pipes. Pelot has also helped design some of Englert’s other restaurants, we’re told.
The decor sports a political flavor. One wall is festooned with American flags, red white and blue bunting and plastered with Nixon images. It’s hard to miss the composite picture of Henry Kissinger posed as a reclining nude. All this memorabilia is interspersed by flat screen TVs showing mainly sports action. Another wall is covered with political buttons. Downstairs is an inviting, rather intimate wine cave, with a glossy bar which dispenses 30 wines. The room is also equipped with pool and shuffleboard tables.
“Capitol Lounge has finally reached the adolescent stage,” Folkman joked.
His background is eclectic; he received a degree in health sciences at James Madison University in Harrisonburg, Va. As for the culinary arts, he’s mainly self taught, with a little help along the way. “I’ve been cooking since I was 14, said Folkman, a New York native. “By age 16, I was catering neighborhood parties and at a deli outside New York City. For me, cooking began as a hobby and a passion, now it’s my career,” he added. He named award-winning local chef, Ann Cashion, as his main mentor, having cooked for her at Cashion’s Eat Place in Adams Morgan.
How can he juggle the kitchens at Granville Moore’s and Capitol Lounge? “I have great sous chefs,” Folkman responded. “We keep in contact daily, and I will pop into Granville Moore’s two or three times a week.”
Open daily (weekday lunch service begins July 8 with an abbreviated dinner menu), Capitol Lounge is located at 231 Pennsylvania Ave. SE; call 202-547-2098. www.capitolloungedc. Oh yes, the grand finale for the Food Network’s Next Food Network Star will be aired Aug. 2.
Coming to Barracks Row: Ted’s Bulletin
By now it’s old news that Matchbox Vintage Bistro, 521 Eighth St. SE, has taken over the space down the street vacated by District Lock and Hardware. But don’t rush over there right away. Ted’s Bulletin, 505 Eighth St. SE, is not due to open until next year. Sporting a 1920s theme, the tiny (2,600 square foot, 100-seat) restaurant is being designed by The Heiserman Group, based in Bethesda.
Emerging from the kitchen will be comfort foods like burgers and “gourmet” milkshakes, says Matchbox co-owner and Hill resident Drew Kim. Matchbox Executive chef Jonathan MacArthur is going to be busy, shuttling between Ted’s, Barracks Row’s Matchbox and its Chinatown parent. However, MacArthur has an able kitchen staff, including two energetic sous chefs. Ted’s will also serve specialty cocktails and other libations.
The moniker “Ted,” is the name of two Matchbox partners’ fathers. “Bulletin? “it’s a secret,” says Kim. “When you come in, you’ll know.” |
