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Wine Guys 0809
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You may think I’m crazy to write about cabernet in August, but I think it’s the perfect month. We spend time outdoors during the day and then grill hamburgers and steaks for dinner. What could go better with grilled beef than cabernet? Too hot outside for cabernet’s classic tannins? Most likely in August you will eat inside with the air conditioner comfortably humming in the background. Cabernets are too expensive you say? The current economic climate is beginning – just beginning, but beginning none the less – to cause some price reductions on cabernet. This article will focus on bargain cabernets from around the world.
Bordeaux
Bordeaux is the birthplace of cabernet sauvignon. Many experts thought cabernet had been around since Roman times. The grape's true origins were discovered in the late 1990s with the use of DNA typing at the UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology by a team led by Dr. Carole Meredith. The DNA evidence determined that cabernet sauvignon was the offspring of cabernet franc and sauvignon blanc and was most likely a chance crossing that occurred in the 17th century. Cabernet here was always blended with merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, petite verdot and/or carmenere. Often it was done to help boost the color and flavor of cabernet in less ripe vintages, but now winemakers will tell you that it is done to increase the wines complexity.
First growth Bordeaux has reached stratospheric pricing, but efforts to reduce inventory here in the states has led to deep discounts. There are now many excellent values in the market under $30 a bottle.
Cote Montpezat 2005 ($15)
This elegant Cotes de Castillon from the highly praised 2005 vintage is deep ruby/purple-colored and possesses sweet floral, cranberry and blackberry notes. It is ripe and forward, with loads of fruit, glycerin and soft tannins in the finish.
Vrai Canon Bouche 2003 ($16)
The relatively cool climate of Canon-Fransac was a big plus in the very hot and ripe 2003 vintage. It possesses aromas of violets, blueberries and crushed stones. Powerful, rich and generous, this bargain is lovely to drink now.
Vieux Château Champs de Mars Cuvee Johanna 2005 ($20)
Another winner from the Cotes de Castillon, it possesses superb intensity, full-bodied power, sweet black raspberry and blackberry fruit, a beautiful texture and a long, chocolaty, heady mouthfeel and finish. Delicious!
Bernadotte 2003 ($24)
Hailing from the Haut Medoc, Bernadotte possesses a rich, sumptuous perfume of roasted nuts, cedar, figs, plums and black currants. It is medium- to full-bodied with silky tannins, low acidity and a lush personality.
Poujeaux 2003 ($30)
Chateau Poujeaux is located in Moulis in the Haut Medoc. The nose leads with sweet cherry, cassis and cranberry aromas that continue into the lovely flavors. It is a silky-textured, medium-bodied, heady, succulent wine that is a delight to drink now.
D'Aurilhac 2003 ($17)
A lovely Haut Medoc at a great price, this full-bodied, deep and concentrated 2003 displays red and black fruits intermingled with licorice, earth and underbrush. What a deal!
California
California cabernet now has a venerable history of well over 100 years, and today, many are considered world class wines. The 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting helped to catapult Californian cabernet sauvignons onto the international stage when Stags’ Leap Wine Cellars' 1973 Stags’ Leap District Cabernet Sauvignon beat out classified Bordeaux estates like Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Montrose, Château Haut-Brion and Château Léoville-Las Cases in a blind tasting conducted by Steven Spurrier.
There are many styles of cabernet produced in California, but the favored tend to be the “black fruit” super ripe style associated with the Napa Valley floor and the more structured and tannic berry fruit style attributable to mountain vineyards. The latter tend to be closer stylistically to Bordeaux. Huge price increases over the last 15 years have put many of these wines out of reach for the average consumer, but with the current glut of wine on the market, there are some truly outstanding bargains.
Cycles Gladiator Cabernet 2008 ($10)
This is one of the few $10 California cabernets that is a pleasure to drink. It is soft and fruit forward showing ripe plum and cassis flavors with hints of spice and cedar that are well-balanced on a smooth frame.
Pacific Estates Reserve Cabernet 2002 ($18)
This delightful cabernet was originally selling for $30 a bottle. Produced in Paso Robles, it possesses very big cassis and black fruit flavors in a fat, full-bodied style. It is an incredible value.
Blackburn Cabernet 2006 ($18)
Blackburn is the excess Paso Robles juice from the Sextant winery. The Sextant label sells for $40. The wine has black cherry and cassis fruit in the nose, full-bodied cassis and blackberry flavors and a long, smooth finish.
Riverview Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2006 ($20)
This is another excess juice wine from a famous Napa producer (if I mentioned the name, they would have to kill me). It begins with bright berry fruit, plenty of black currant flavor as well as sweet toasty oak and smokiness in a nice, round, opulent sexy style.
X Winery Cabernet 2006 ($25)
A classically styled Napa cabernet with plenty of black cherry fruit along with tobacco, cedar and cassis. The soft tannins allow for early consumption, but two more years in the bottle will reward the patient.
South America
The Spanish conquistadors brought Vitis Vinifera grape cuttings to the continent in the 16th century. Wine has been produced there ever since and in many countries is an integral part of their heritage. Chile and Argentina produce the most wine in South America, and they are generally considered the best. Chilean wines became popular in the 1980s resulting in overproduction, decreases in quality and then a loss in sales. This decade has seen a resurgence of quality as Chile competes with Argentina for the lucrative US market. Argentine wines saw a huge increase in quality in the 1990s, and the devaluation of the Argentine peso in 2002, following the economic collapse, further fueled the industry as production costs decreased and exports to the US took off.
Eyzaguirre Cabernet 2005 ($10)
This easy to drink Chilean cabernet is called “The Wine in the Sack” as the bottle is wrapped in burlap. The bouquet of dried cherry and plum leads to soft flavors of cherry, dark chocolate and mint. The wine has a rich mouthfeel and a soft and smooth finish. What a value!
La Playa Axel Cabernet 2005 ($20)
This is a noteworthy Chilean cabernet with concentrated black cherry, plum, crushed currant, cocoa powder and coffee notes that glide through a fleshy, cedar-tinged finish. This is an impressive cabernet for the price.
Rio Seco Cabernet Reserva 2006 ($12)
This bargain Argentine cabernet has vanilla oak nuances, black cherry, black currant and spice. This leads to a medium-bodied wine with an elegant personality, succulent fruit, a lush texture and good length, all for $12!
Alto 3 Cabernet Reserva 2006 ($14)
This excellent 2006 cabernet is inky purple with an attractive bouquet of toasty black currants. Medium-bodied, supple and ripe, the wine has excellent complexity with ample, spicy red and black fruits, light tannin, and very good depth of flavor.
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