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Harriman’s homespun chicken and dumplings are outlined against the nearby
Washington Channel.
Photo: Andrew Lightman
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First and foremost, you will NOT find blue corn tortillas or green chili stew on the menu at Sou’Wester, the newest restaurant in the glitzy, 400-room Mandarin Oriental. Formerly the Asian-themed Café MoZU, the name of the sleek newcomer represents its location – Southwest, Washington’s smallest, quadrant.
Mandarin’s top toque remains Eric Ziebold, executive chef for the flagship restaurant, CityZen. But matching whisks with Eric is energetic chef de cuisine Rachael Harriman, who has worked closely with the James Beard award-winner ever since CityZen opened.
Sou’Wester serves innovative American cuisine “with regional influences” tapping fresh ingredients from nearby farms and other sustainable sources. “Sou’Wester, which also means ‘strong winds blowing from the southwest,’ captures the essence of the restaurant,” said Ziebold in a written statement. “The connotations of a sou’wester - the quick change in direction and the burst of new energy –– these undertones resonate with me,” added Ziebold. “We wanted to do something completely different, a concept that would be new for the city, our local community and for our hotel guests.”
Having cooked together at the French Laundry in Yountville, California, Per Se in New York City, and CityZen in D.C., Chefs Ziebold and Harriman make an efficient and natural team, complementing each other’s styles. Also essential to the team is pastry chef Amanda Cook, who has presided over CityZen desserts for more than three years.
A native of Fairfax, Harriman, now a vivacious 32, grew up in Rochester, New York and attended the New England Culinary Institute in Burlington, Vermont. While shuttling back and fourth between New York’s Per Se, the Columbus Circle restaurant she helped launch, and the famous French Laundry, Harriman squeezed in a stint in Paris to enhance her already considerable cooking skills. Harriman finally settled in the Washington area (she lives in Alexandria) to help with City Zen three years ago.
“Everyone wants his or her own spot,” said Rachael, over tea in the hotel’s sunny, spacious lobby. “This has worked out very well for me, and launching my own project seemed like the best next step.” (Both Mandarin Oriental restaurants were closed briefly during the renovation.) CityZen reopened September 11, while the 115-seat Sou’Wester debuted three days later. She and Ziebold preside over a kitchen staff of 15, including two sous chefs.
We got the preview walk-through of the space, designed by Henricksen Design Associates of Venice, California, which specializes in hotel interiors. “It’s a facelift from an Asian theme to a country theme,” explained Harriman. “The front area is homey and serene,” she added, as we admired the polished oak floors, cherrywood-stained tables and pale green patterned upholstery. Sunshine streamed in through tall windows. In the zen-like garden, which accommodates additional diners, we gazed at the Washington Channel, the Jefferson Memorial and the Tidal Basin.
Harriman does not include crabcakes on her menu, but does offer crab Imperial, North Carolina white shrimp (so mild you can eat them raw, Harriman said), shoat (young pig) rillette with pickled green tomatoes (a Ziebold specialty), braised rabbit leg with creamed grits. Harriman’s menu also takes a Southern route with chicken and dumplings, fried chicken with coleslaw, and hush puppies with honey butter,. Amanda Cook’s desserts include a wide selection of ice creams and sorbets, fried apple pie and carrot cake.
Although CityZen remains a special occasion splurge, Sou’Wester’s menu is more affordable. Appetizers keep to the $8 to $14 range, with entrees tagged between $13 and $24. “Eric is adamant about reaching out to the Southwest community,” said Harriman. “We want to make everyone feel welcome.”
Heading the Sou’Wester beverage program is Carlton McCoy, an Advanced Level Sommelier, former captain at CityZen. The extensive wine list encompasses modestly pricedwines-by-the-glass, an all-American craft beer list and a cocktail menu using house-made nectars.
Located in the Mandarin Oriental hotel at 1330 Maryland Ave., SW, Sou’wester is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily. For reservations call 202-787-6868 or visit www.mandarinoriental.com. The Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group owns and operates 41 hotels (with 10,000 guest rooms) in Asia, the Americas, Europe and North Africa. |
