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Dulce’s brownie sundae–
a decadent brownie mounded with
vanilla ice cream, sprinkled
crowned with a maraschino cherry.
Photo: Andrew Lightman |
We’d been getting rave reviews about Dulce Café & Lounge, which debuted in September next to Frager’s Hardware on Pennsylvania Ave. SE. When we checked out the newcomer, we were not disappointed. At noon on a chilly Wednesday, we were greeted by manager James Riley (whom we remember from Chinatown’s Matchbox), and Dulce co-owner Nyika Humphries. No strangers to the restaurant biz, Nyika and her husband Clifton Humphries also operate the H Street Martini Bar at 1236 H St. NE.
Dulce lunchtime customers–some of whom appeared to be regulars–began to trickle in. As we spoke with Humphries, we took in the muted decor–largely designed by Clifton–of beige walls, striped booths and high tables and chairs by the window.
Sipping raspberry/pomegranate tea, we scanned the luncheon menu and decided to take advantage of the restaurant’s “2 for $8 or 3 for $10" midday special, which includes a half sandwich on whole wheat or rosemary focaccia bread, paired with a soup and/or salad. Husband Peter chose a half portabello sandwich (he could have gone for turkey, ham or chicken salad), and a cup of butternut squash soup. I ordered tummy-warming beef chili topped with shredded Cheddar cheese, and a small Greek salad. But first, our server Melanie Rice brought us a savory spinach/cheese dip escorted with crisp tortilla chips. Delicious. We extended our compliments to chef William Redd, who’s also cooked at Harry’s Tap Room in Rockville.
Dulce’s other lunchtime options were classic Caesar and cranberry/pecan/mixed green salads; “White Castle” sliders ($4 each or 3 for $10); fish and chips; and shrimp and grits. The latter is Dulce’s top seller, and is also available on the dinner menu. We’ll try that on our next visit. Other evening choices are penne pasta with pesto, grilled salmon, braised calamari and marinated steak and onions.
Then came the piece de resistance: Dulce’s brownie sundae–a decadent brownie mounded with vanilla ice cream, sprinkled with candied pecans and crowned with a maraschino cherry. Ah, nostalgia. Another well-received dessert is an old-fashioned root beer float, evoking more childhood memories. After all, “dulce” means “sweet” in Spanish.
Dulce has applied for an alcohol license, and its handsome bar should be up and running by the first week of November. However, lack of wine and spirits has not harmed business. “Dulce is for dining,” said Humphries. “Our focus is on the food, and the social lounge upstairs.” Much of their luncheon business is carryout and the majority of customers are Hill neighbors.
“We’re taking things slowly, because we want to get it right,” Humphries emphasized. To attract more foot traffic, employees take turns handing out flyers on Pennsylvania Avenue. Moreover, anyone displaying a receipt from Frager’s gets $2 off of lunch or dinner. On Wednesdays, customers with a 20003 zip code receive a 10 percent dinner discount.
After lunch, we visited Dulce’s upstairs area, nicely appointed with comfy couches, high tables and chairs, and a jukebox. A large painting of the US Capitol looms over a pool table. In nice weather, look for sidewalk seating and an enclosed outdoor roof. The upstairs skylight has also been soundproofed to keep noise from bothering concerned neighbors.
The savvy Humphries couple brings an interesting background to their new endeavor. Nyika, who grew up in Queens, studied biology and psychology at the Virginia Commonwealth University while husband Clifton is a 21-year veteran with the District of Columbia Fire Department. The couple lives near Benning Road in Southeast.
Located at 1123 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, Dulce is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; noon to 9 p.m. Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday. Dulce also caters, offering items from the regular menu. Call 202-675-2005 or visit www.dulcedc.com. |
