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It wasn’t exactly true of my generation, but these days, one of the perks of being a college student is the opportunity to study abroad. My youngest daughter is spending the semester in Florence, Italy. It was our duty as parents to pay her a visit, so she didn’t get too homesick. I was really looking forward to spending a week eating and drinking in this famous town, seeing a few museums and eating and drinking some more. The only problem is that Florence is the capital of Tuscany, one of the most famous wine regions in the world. While I was there, I just couldn’t resist visiting a few wineries.
The wine region of Tuscany is comprised of 29 Denominazioni di Origine Controllata (DOC) and seven Denominazioni di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). These are quality assurances for wine similar to the French Appellation laws (AOC). It was this regulation that gave birth to the term “Super Tuscan.” Since the advent of the DOC in 1963, Chianti could not contain more than 70 percent Sangiovese, the great red grape of Tuscany, and had to include at least 10 percent of one of the local white grapes. Producers who wanted to make a wine only with Sangiovese or with no white grapes were relegated to the lowly Vino da Tavola designation. It was Piero Antinori who in 1971 produced a wine with no designation he called “Tignanello.” Not only was it made from only red grapes, it contained a small amount of cabernet sauvignon blended with Sangiovese. A revolution was born. Today, the wine laws have been adjusted to allow Chianti to contain 100 percent Sangiovese, but many producers stick with their “Super Tuscan” brand names.
Chianti is still the most famous region in Tuscany. Some might be old enough to remember the squat Chianti bottle covered in straw, called a fiasco. Few producers use this old bottle today because of its high cost and association with inexpensive wine.
The Chianti region was established in 1716, and that area is now called Chianti Classico, an area between Florence and Sienna. There are six other sub-regions of Chianti: Colli Aretini, Colli Fiorentini, Colline Pisane, Colli Senesi, Montalbano and Rùfina. You will usually see this name, followed by “in Chianti,” on the label.
Many Chiantis have a black rooster or “Gallo Nero” on the bottle neck, which symbolized a consortium of growers who imposed quality standards. Today, it represents a producers association. The designation “Reserva” refers to wines aged three years in both barrel and bottle. These are usually a selection from the wineries best vineyards.
South of Sienna is the town of Montepulciano, home of the Vino Nobile de Montepulciano DOCG. Its name refers to the wines favor with Tuscan nobility. Vino Nobile is required to be at least 80 percent Sangiovese blended with 10 percent to 20 percent Canaiolo Nero. The remaining percentage can be any red grape, but it is traditionally Mammolo. Aged a minimum of two years in oak barrels, Vino Nobile is a soft and complex Tuscan red with a distinct cherry quality. This should not be confused with another wine from southern Italy called Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Here, Montepulciano is the grape variety and Abruzzo, the town.
Farther south is the famous region of Brunello di Montalcino. Brunello is the local name for a particular hybrid of Sangiovese called Sangiovese Grosso. The blend was isolated by Clemente Santi, and his grandson, Ferruccio Bondi-Santi, produced the first wine called Brunello di Montalcino in 1888. Montalcino has the warmest and driest climate in Tuscany. The vineyards are planted on the hillsides with the higher fields producing the most aromatic and complex wines. The wines tend to have great structure and are capable of extended aging. They usually need a minimum of 10 years in the bottle to show their stuff. This full-bodied Sangiovese exhibits scents and flavors of black cherry, blackberry, black- raspberry, chocolate and violets. You can also see the medieval walled city of Montalcino that sits on the top of a large hill. Don’t miss it if you are visiting Tuscany.
Tuscany’s finest and most famous white wine is Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Vernaccia is the grape variety, and its name appears in records from the town of San Gimignano as early as 1276. It was the first Italian wine to be awarded the DOC in 1966. Today it is a DOCG wine. Vernaccia is a medium-bodied, crisp and dry white wine with good character and flavor that is worth seeking out. The town of San Gimignano is also well worth the trip. It is the home of beautiful hand-painted ceramics with a multitude of shops selling every conceivable design.
Tuscan Finds
Geografico Vernaccia di San Gimignano 2007 ($13)
A delightfully clean Vernaccia with complex flavors of white peaches, minerals, smoke and earthiness. Good acidity and a long, refreshing finish make this a great value.
Geografico Colli Senesi in Chianti 2007 ($12)
Soft and pleasing with ripe red fruit aromas and flavors. What more could you want for $12?
Tramonti Chianti Classico 2004 ($20)
A beautifully layered, expressive wine bursting with sweet dark fruit intermingled with subtle licorice and earth. Medium in body, it offers outstanding overall balance, an inviting, open personality and sweet, silky tannins to round of the finish.
Amorelli Chianti Classico 2003 ($24)
Producer-oenologist Marco Mazzarini has turned in a winning effort with his 2003 Chianti Classico. It is very ripe with focused berry fruit, soft yet structured flavors of chocolate and earth and soft tannins on the finish. Delicious!
Vicchiomaggio Chianti Classico Reserva La Prima 2004 ($50)
This single vineyard Chianti Classico Reserva is not inexpensive, but it is truly a tour-de-force in winemaking. Atypically powerful and rich, it has layers of chewy black cherry fruit, great weight and viscosity and a long, complex finish. The grapes come from one of the oldest vineyards in Chianti, and winemaker John Motta gets great extraction from the low-yielding vines.
Roberto Aglieta Brunello di Montalcino 2004 ($70)
This may be the finest Brunello I have tasted. Unfortunately, Roberto Aglieta passed away last fall after making the 2008 vintage. He and his winemaking will be sorely missed. This spectacular 2004 is finessed and regal with layers of perfumed fruit framed by silky tannins. It is elegant yet massive with complex flavors of red and black fruit, spice, leather and earth. You can taste something else with each extremely pleasurable sip. Hold on to this beauty for at least 10 more years, and it will be the finest wine in your cellar.
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