Rita’s on Georgia Avenue used to be easy to miss, nestled as it is in a block of other family-owned businesses, with only a small yellow sign to distinguish it. If you were walking by and a customer happened to open the door, bringing the rich curry smells onto the sidewalk, you may have been tempted to enter. But now Rita’s new façade of shiny white, black and red tiles, the colors of Trinidad’s flag, makes it definitely stand out. Opened in 1973 by Rita and Michael Houghton, Rita’s is the oldest West Indian restaurant in DC. The spacious dining room is lined with photographs documenting the history of DC’s annual Caribbean Carnival over the last 34 years, many featuring Mr. Houghton, whose elaborate costumes have won him the “King” title a number of times.
“My wife is a hard worker,” says Mr. Houghton, when asked for the reason behind the establishment’s longevity. And the restaurant is named for her for a good reason, says Houghton. “My wife is a very good cook.”
Rita’s longtime customers would agree. The restaurant has a loyal following, says Houghton. “We have a variety of customers, African, Ethiopian, Indian, all types. At first they didn’t know the food, but once they tasted it, we got a whole lot of American customers.”
As if on cue, James, a customer for almost 30 years, strolled in from his house around the corner to order a beef dinner with rice and mixed beans. “My son started me here,” James explains. “It’s all very good. Sometimes spicy, but that makes you drink more water, which is good for you. The service is excellent.”
Rita begins her cooking at 8 a.m. every day. The menu offers dozens of options for lunch or dinner – curry chicken, goat or beef; fried or steamed fish; and at least nine vegetable and bean dishes that can be eaten as sides or combined into vegetarian meals.
What brings me there time and again is the roti. Indentured servants and immigrants from India brought roti bread to the Caribbean Islands more than 100 years ago, and it has become the unofficial national dish of Trinidad. Roti is a thin bread similar to a tortilla, but richer in texture and flavor. At Rita’s, yellow split peas are folded into the flour mix before the roti is grilled. The result is a warm chewy bread, or shell, that is wrapped around your filling of choice. I like potato and channa, a curried chickpea dish, with a spritz of hot sauce.
People not raised in the Caribbean may be unfamiliar with some of the popular West Indian beverages Rita’s serves. Peanut Punch is made in-house from peanut butter, milk and sugar. Sorrel, referred to by some as the “other cranberry” is made from a tree’s pod. After drying, cinnamon and nutmeg are added, as well as sugar, water and vanilla extract. Mauby is made from the bark of a tree, boiled in water, and known to be good for diabetes. Those looking for a good aphrodisiac should try Seamoss. This “body builder” found in the ocean is cleaned and infused with condensed milk and sugar. “Does it work?” I ask.
“People always come back,” chuckles Houghton.
Located a few blocks south of the Georgia Avenue/Petworth Metro station, Rita’s is near the intersection of Georgia and Lamont streets across from the post office. The area, after years of decline, is experiencing a surge of redevelopment. New condos are being built all around Rita’s, but Houghton has no fear of losing their space due to real estate speculation because they have long owned their building. They are looking forward to new customers and more years at their successful restaurant.
As a longtime business owner in the area, Houghton is glad that things are looking up. He has noticed less drug activity in recent years and has been pleased by how attentive the police have been. “I just have to make one call, and they come. They know us.”
He may be satisfied with the police force, but Houghton is frustrated by the DC government’s efforts to crackdown on DC’s Caribbean Carnival. Houghton, an active member of the DC Caribbean Carnival committee, is currently fighting $4,000 worth of fines incurred for permitting violations. “They are trying to kill the Carnival. I can’t understand why. Every other ethnic group has a festival.”
While continuing to preserve the cultural diversity of Georgia Avenue, Houghton does have a desire to return to Trinidad for retirement with his wife.
Houghton’s advice to other small business owners? “To succeed, you don’t need a whole lot of education, just a lot of determination and hard work.”
Rita’s Carryout and Restaurant
3322 Georgia Ave. NW
202-722-1868
10 a.m.-9 p.m. (Mon-Sat) Closed Holidays