East of the River

Crowns

The African-American Tradition of Hats

by: Michelle Phipps-Evans

If you visit any church that attracts a predominantly African-American congregation, you can be sure you will see hats, hats and more hats. African-American women have a love affair with the church hat, so much so that for many of them, dressing up for Sunday morning church is more than dressing for the glory of God. It is an emotional and visual representation of African-American freedom and beauty as Sunday morning service can showcase the best collection of hats, music and fashion.

The African-American woman and her hat is the subject of the groundbreaking 2000 book, published by Doubleday, “Crowns: Portraits of Black Women in Church Hats,” and the Broadway musical that sprang from it. “Crowns” features in black and white photographs 50 Black women and the hats they wore to church, and the stories behind the hats. In 1998, North Carolina photographer Michael Cunningham began taking pictures of women in their hats. His friend, journalist Craig Marberry, thought they should put together a book of the photos and the stories behind them. Marberry was curious about why so many African-American women wear flamboyant hats to church.

“I think it’s because it’s rooted in the African tradition that says that when one presents oneself before God… that you should be at your best – that you should present excellence before the Almighty,” said Marberry in an interview with National Public Radio. “And that tradition of adorning the head for worship is a very African tradition.”

The playwright Regina Taylor, who adapted the book into the musical, said she was able to trace the tradition to slave life on the plantation and to Africa before that.

“After slavery, in Jim Crow times, the place where you could go to wear your special outfit and to wear your hat was to church,” says Taylor. “But even before that, the tradition of adorning oneself for worship is very African in nature. The head is holy—it’s where spirits can come and go—and so the head should be covered.”

The hats were often referred to as a woman’s “crown.” Many women saw it in the past as disrespectful to be in church without covering their heads, taking the scripture that says, “Women, adorn yourselves in modest apparel,” to heart. The tradition of hats blends high fashion, deep spirituality and respect for ancestors, according to “Crowns.” It is the practice by many women of wearing elaborate hats to church, especially for special celebrations such as Easter, Christmas and Mother’s Day. Of course some women wear hats and take the fashion statement even beyond the walls of the church. The intricate designs and shapes run the gamut—from the straw hat with the undulating brims to the polka-dot hat with a gardenia to a turban-like fur hat to the wide-brim hat with flowers to the narrow hat with feathers—women will wear them in any color to match a purse, an entire outfit, a pair of shoes or for it to stand out on its own

For women such as D.C. photographer Camille Mosley-Pasley, she originally used her favorite bowler hat as a marketing gimmick.

“I used to be one of many street vendors in Georgetown,” said Mosley-Pasley, 41, whobought the bowler when she was 18, and wore it year round. “To stand out from the rest of the pack I wore bright red, purple or green jeans, cowboy boots with a two-inch heel (I still have those too) and a hat. I really wanted a top hat but they cost too much so I got a bowler and a porkpie, which I still have. The bowler was my favorite and it always got more customers than the porkpie.”

And as a wearer of several different hats during the summer, I can relate to that feeling of nakedness if caught outdoors without my sombrero-like straw hats to protect me. I believe I’m making a fashion statement when I wear my hats, which usually match my blouse or my purse.

Taylor, the playwright, pointed out that although the women in her play are “absolutely African-American women,” their stories are universal.

“As with every human being, their wants, needs and dreams are universal.”

“Crowns: Portraits of Black Women in Church Hats” by Michael Cunningham and Craig Marberry is available at any Barnes & Noble bookstores or on Amazon.com.


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Crowns
The African-American Tradition of Hats
by: Michelle Phipps-Evans
If you visit any church that attracts a predominantly African-American congregation, you can be sure you will see hats, hats and more hats. African-American women have a love affair with the church hat, so much so that for many of them, dressing up for Sunday morning church is more than dressing for the glory of God. It is an emotional and visual representation of African-American freedom and beauty as Sunday morning service can showcase the best collection of hats, music and fashion. The African-American woman and her hat is the subject of the groundbreaking 2000 book, published by Doubleday, “Crowns: Portraits of Black Women in Church Hats,” and the Broadway musical that sprang from it. “Crowns” features in black and white photographs 50 Black women and the hats they wore to church, and the stories behind the hats. In 1998, North Carolina photographer Michael Cunningham began taking pictures of women in their hats. His friend, journalist Craig Marberry, thought they should put together a book of the photos and the stories behind them. Marberry was curious about why so many African-American women wear flamboyant hats to church. “I think it’s because it’s rooted in the African tradition that says that when one presents oneself before God… that you should be at your best – that you should present excellence before the Almighty,” said Marberry in an interview with National Public Radio. “And that tradition of adorning the head for worship is a very African tradition.” The playwright Regina Taylor, who adapted the book into the musical, said she was able to trace the tradition to slave life on the plantation and to Africa before that. “After slavery, in Jim Crow times, the place where you could go to wear your special outfit and to wear your hat was to church,” says Taylor. “But even before that, the tradition of adorning oneself for worship is very African in nature. The head is holy—it’s where spirits can come and go—and so the head should be covered.” The hats were often referred to as a woman’s “crown.” Many women saw it in the past as disrespectful to be in church without covering their heads, taking the scripture that says, “Women, adorn yourselves in modest apparel,” to heart. The tradition of hats blends high fashion, deep spirituality and respect for ancestors, according to “Crowns.” It is the practice by many women of wearing elaborate hats to church, especially for special celebrations such as Easter, Christmas and Mother’s Day. Of course some women wear hats and take the fashion statement even beyond the walls of the church. The intricate designs and shapes run the gamut—from the straw hat with the undulating brims to the polka-dot hat with a gardenia to a turban-like fur hat to the wide-brim hat with flowers to the narrow hat with feathers—women will wear them in any color to match a purse, an entire outfit, a pair of shoes or for it to stand out on its own For women such as D.C. photographer Camille Mosley-Pasley, she originally used her favorite bowler hat as a marketing gimmick. “I used to be one of many street vendors in Georgetown,” said Mosley-Pasley, 41, whobought the bowler when she was 18, and wore it year round. “To stand out from the rest of the pack I wore bright red, purple or green jeans, cowboy boots with a two-inch heel (I still have those too) and a hat. I really wanted a top hat but they cost too much so I got a bowler and a porkpie, which I still have. The bowler was my favorite and it always got more customers than the porkpie.” And as a wearer of several different hats during the summer, I can relate to that feeling of nakedness if caught outdoors without my sombrero-like straw hats to protect me. I believe I’m making a fashion statement when I wear my hats, which usually match my blouse or my purse. Taylor, the playwright, pointed out that although the women in her play are “absolutely African-American women,” their stories are universal. “As with every human being, their wants, needs and dreams are universal.” “Crowns: Portraits of Black Women in Church Hats” by Michael Cunningham and Craig Marberry is available at any Barnes & Noble bookstores or on Amazon.com.