The thought was enticing: a weekend in the Smoky Mountains,hiking - with a very special carrier for my pack.

His name was Tego. And he was as exotic a creature as his name. A llama.

Everything was in place when I arrived at the North Carolina mountain lodge bed and breakfast that was to be my base. The mountains—ringed in the wisps of cloud that give them their name—looked alluring; early spring flowers were bursting into life; the creek I was going to clamber around, gurgled swiftly with snow melt; and the llamas looked fit and healthy and rarin’ —like me—to go.

But then it rained. Then the heavens opened and it poured. And just when it stopped and the sun poked through, there was a cloud-burst! And then it just started raining, and raining and, well you get the soggy message.

No worries though. If I can’t get my boots on and clock up a few miles on a mountain side, then indulging in creature comforts are my idea of fun. As in, taking an afternoon nap in an ever-so comfortable bed, piled high with marshmallow pillows—and listening to nature making music on the windows.

The WindDancers Lodge —set up against Hurricane Ridge, in a lost part of the Smokies called Fine’s Creek—specializes in llama trekking. And, happily, lots of other things.

To start with, forget the traditional notion of a B&B. No granny’s antique Victorian chest of drawers here, or austere ancestors glowering from gold-leaf frames. Not a doily in sight, or a frill or a fluff (well, maybe the pillows). Think ethnic....as in Alaskan, Bali, African, Peru, Appalachian. Then think of the colors, the artifacts, the furnishings, that go with those themes.

This is WindDancers—nine suites, some with two bed-rooms, all different in decor, but all with massive beds, giant two-person tubs, cozy gas-log fires and the same huge welcome.

Providing the latter are two generations of Livengoods: Gale and Donna, son Greg and daughter-in-law Susan. They’ve come up with something of a rarity in the B & B genre.

It’s not just the frequently “over-stuffed” feel they’ve got rid of, but there’s nothing of the “sherry-will-be-taken-in-the-parlor” image. And for sure, there’s no “children not welcome” feel. Quite the opposite.

Away from the main lodge, an all-timber construction, are two other log-lodges. Both house the bigger suites with kitchens (fridges full of breakfast goodies) and special fun spaces for kids to sleep. The Indonesian House has a spiral staircase leading to a jungle tree-house bedroom.

WindDancers, set in 270 private acres of lush meadows, rustling trees and dramatic ridges, has many levels of attraction. For the serious hiker there are countless trails, all within very easy reach. Whitewater rafting, on the Pigeon River, is 15 minutes away. In the winter, there’s handy skiing at Cataloochee.

For those who just want to relax, there’s the communal porch, plus a personal deck, with the comfort of Adirondack chairs, from which to do nothing but absorb the ever-changing vista of the mountains.

For the youngsters there’s a range-free-zone of safety, with the creek to splash about in, the pond to fish in for frogs, tiddlers, even crayfish, plus the wonder of the, on-the-doorstep, great-outdoors to race around in.

And there’s plenty for the avid on-the-go types, be it as tourists or shoppers. Once you’re off the two-mile gravel road (now, there’s an indication of the sort of “getaway” location WindDancers occupies) you’re no distance from Biltmore, possibly the grandest and certainly the largest home in America and several wineries, one of the fastest growing attractions of the region.

And, if you really insist on going, Maggie Valley (which sounds wonderful but is jammed with high-street razzmatazz) is within easy striking-distance, as are Asheville and Waynesville, one a big historic town, the other a small historic town. Both are fun spots in which to run up the credit-card.

But with llamas in your life, you won’t feel like straying far, unless it’s with them in tow.

My trip was on and off, and on again. But with dark clouds hanging low, it was decided we would just take the llamas for a walk. Instead of them, getting geared-up to carry rain-gear, day-packs - and our lunch!

Yes, the great attraction of an outing with the WindDancers’ llamas is the feast. No picnic this. Literally, not metaphorically, that is. A mile up the mountain that soars behind the lodges, a deck miraculously suddenly appears. It straddles the creek. It comes complete with grill. This is the llama-trek luncheon place. And what Blue Plate Specials are dished-up here—complete with wine and glass glasses!

A necessity of the llama-outing is that every wine-bottle is emptied. Makes for a lighter burden for the llamas on the return journey!

In my case the food was absent but we still hung out on the mountain-side deck, decked-out ourselves in waterproofs! We stayed long enough for a team-photo. I was with a good walking crew, an extended family, who’d congregated for a reunion, from various parts of Indiana and the Carolinas.

Of course, by the time we got back off the mountain-trail and had “home” in our sights, the sun was out. And by the time the llamas had been herded back into their pasture, it was raining again.

But that was alright. As it always is at WindDancers. Lunch was served in the grand-hall—an enormously light and airy but still cozy gathering space in the main-lodge. We had exactly the “picnic” that we’d have had if the weather had cooperated: i.e. grilled strips of marinated chicken breast, three bean salad, with olives, and red-pepper, in a vinaigrette dressing; with fresh French bread; followed by a thick cream topped brownie.

The magic of llamas is that they’re as sure-footed beasts as you’re ever going to get close too. And talking about getting close, they are not going to spit at you, which is the one thing I thought I knew about llamas. They do spit, but only at each other when there’s a hierarchy-battle going on, usually, of course, over a female. Which is why the Livengoods have purposely kept their 15-strong herd free of females.

Llamas are also ideal hiking companions because they do not tug, they do not lag and—unlike horses—are not skittish. Nothing, as you’re out exploring the terrain pack free, is going to unnerve them, except maybe the hug you’ll want to give them at the end of the trip, for a job well done. Llamas, somewhat arrogant in attitude, are not ones for the kissy-kissy, human-touch.

But the Livengoods are. Well, not the kissy-kissy bit (though you will be compelled to hug them all as you leave their Smoky Mountain refuge.) Their special-touches are in the fresh herbs that adorn every gourmet breakfast plate; the slabs of home-baked cake left out as a late-night snack; the library of 400 videos if you fancy watching a movie in your, no-TV-but-a-VCR, suite; a game of pool or a stack of board games for those rainy spring days and cold winter nights; the use of a guest refrigerator; the facility of using the main kitchen if a group takes the four suites off the main hall.

One thing that they like in return, is for guests to write in the guest-book in each room. Messages such as: “I felt I’d left the world behind...” or “The tranquility and peace were a true treat...” are typical. And most of them rave about the luxury-comfort of the beds and the originality of the breakfasts. How about a dish of yoghurt mixed with walnuts, banana and dried cranberries, followed by poached egg on ham on a potato pancake, with ginger-bread served with whipped cream cheese, flavored with orange juice?

But as Susan Livengood remarks: “If you run a bed and breakfast you should be able to, at least, get the ‘bed’ and the ‘breakfast’ right.”

As for my own experience? I’m glad the weather was lousy! It means I have to return — so Tego can carry my gear as I ramble free, on a beautiful day, in them thar Smokies!

IF YOU GO:

WindDancers Lodge: rates from $130 (double) to $165 (sleeps five); lunch llama treks $45 pp; open all year; tel: 828-627-6986, toll-free 877-627-3330; address, 1966 Martins Creel Road, Clyde, NC 28721; e-mail info@WindDancersNC.com; website www.WindDancersNC.com

HOW TO GET THERE:

Driving: 507 miles from Capitol Hill; take I-95 S, to 1-85 S, to

I-40 W, take exit 15 to Fines Creek, 1.5 miles to Martins Creek Road, lodge is two miles up track. If you don’t fancy a ten hour drive, or an overnight stop, or having to pass all those famed NC outlets on the way, fly, from National Airport on US Airways, to Asheville (50 miles from Lodge), Greenville/Spartanburg (100 miles) or Knoxville (85 miles); round-trip fares just over $200.

EATING:

WindDancers’ specializse in Mongolian Potfire Dinners for a minimum six people, at $40 pp, order ahead. Five of the nine suites have kitchen facilities; groups can arrange use of the main kitchen; there is a communal barbeque and fridge. Otherwise it’s a good half-hour drive into Waynesville, which has a decent selection of restaurants; an 11-mile drive to the truck-stop at exit 15 on route 40 for a Subway; or, my favorite option, a quick four mile trip to Ferguson’s General Store, to pick-up a pizza - and gorge on a pulled-pork-sandwich while you wait!

FUN TIME TO GO:

August 19-20, when the Bluegrass Jam, at Fines Creek - the hamlet a couple of miles down the gravel path from WindDancers - is staged. A legendary gathering for some of the best bluegrass musicians around. Book early, as some of them “hang” at the WindDancers.