Hill Rag | August 2007

Wine Guys

Here’s To Your Health

by: Jon Genderson

More Troubles in Bordeaux
I reported last month about the difficulties many lesser known Bordeaux chateaus were having selling their wine. Overproduction resulting in mediocre to poor quality has made their wines only appealing to grocery stores and distilleries that turn the swill in to brandy. The French government is actually paying some producers not to make wine.

Producers are seeing slow sales for the high priced 2006 vintage and now it appears that the 2007 vintage has been all but wiped out by rain and rot. Torrential rains in May followed by rain in June and July has led to mildew on the leaves, which is now beginning to affect the grapes. In the southern Graves region of Bordeaux, as much as 90 percent of the crop may have been lost. It is unclear what will happen if August brings better weather, but it will certainly be a much reduced crop.

Burgundy is OK, so far
A cold snap in July thwarted the mildew from affecting Burgundy. Despite this cold weather, the Burgundy vineyards are still ahead of schedule for harvesting due to a very warm spring.

Alsace and Cote Rotie Hit by Hail
Violent hail storms ripped thru Alsace and Cote Rotie at the end of June causing the destruction of much of the 2007 crop. Vineyard owners in Alsace report damage to vineyards north of Colmar to be between 20 percent and 80 percent. Cote Rotie has lost 50 percent of its crop.

Wine is Good for You (like we didn’t know!)
Several new studies show that wine benefits circulation and heart health, kidneys, lungs and can slow the gradual descent into dementia.

According to new research published in the May 2007 issue of the journal Addiction, scientists at the University of Buffalo found that drinking alcohol is associated with a lower risk of heart attack in women. This is the first study that specifically looks at the drinking behavior of women.

Researchers from Brigham and Women's Hospital in Boston have concluded that drinking alcohol in light to moderate amounts is linked to a lower risk of kidney cancer than abstaining, reports The Journal of the National Cancer Institute. Though wine showed a slightly higher level of protection, the study concluded that how much one drinks – not what type of beverage – had a much greater impact on the risk of renal cancer. Those who had roughly a half-glass of wine per day showed a 3 percent lower risk of developing renal cancer, and those who had about a glass of wine per day showed 18 percent lower risk. Those who had 1.5 glasses per day showed 28 percent lower risk. The researchers added that alcohol may help improve insulin sensitivity and work as an antioxidant, thereby clearing out harmful and potentially cancer-causing elements in the organ. However, the researchers warned against consistent, heavier drinking as a way to avoid the risks of renal cancer, since so few of the study's participants were heavy drinkers.

A new study, conducted by scientists from the Department of Geriatrics at the University of Bari, in Bari, Italy, found that a drink or two per day may help slow the development of dementia. The research, published in the May 22 issue of the journal Neurology, may provide hope for those at risk of dementia. The researchers reported that light to moderate alcohol consumption can slow the development of dementia by as much as 85 percent.

A new study published online in the medical journal Thorax, states that men following a Mediterranean diet that includes the moderate consumption of wine may half their chance of developing lung ailments such as emphysema and bronchitis.

To Your Health!
Now that you understand how beneficial moderate wine drinking can be for your health, here are some suggestions to enjoy over the hot days of August.

La Tordera Rose "Cuvee di Gabri" ($18)
This delightful sparkling wine from the Prosecco region of Italy is a beautiful salmon color with an intense bouquet of strawberries. Its bright fruit flavors and crisp acidity make it just perfect for sipping on the deck or patio on a warm, lazy day. Really delicious!

Anime Prosecco ($15)
Another super-fresh sparkling wine, the Anime Prosecco is round and creamy in the mouth with ripe fruit flavors and a persistent finish.

Chateau du Donjon Minervois Rose 2006 ($11)
Bright strawberry in color with big, fat, ripe raspberry flavors that slather the tongue in fruit. The soft finish makes it great on it’s own on a warm day, but you can also serve it with salmon, tuna and baked chicken.

Thierry Mothe Petit Chablis 2005 ($15)
I know you will think I’m crazy, but after many years of research I have concluded that the best wine to have with hard shell crabs is Chablis; the real thing, not something from California or New York State that says “Chablis” on the label. (I know beer is good, too, but please try this.) The Chablis doesn’t have to be Premier or Grand Cru, you just need it be very crisp, light and dry. The Thierry Mothe Petit Chablis fits the bill perfectly. It can also go with shrimp or scallops.

Michel Martin Savigny les Beaune Blanc 2005 ($30)
A more serious white Burgundy, this Savigny les Beaune Blanc possesses an amazing flavor of spiced apples, clove, ginger and apple pie. This crisp and dry white Burgundy is broad, rich and layered and will go exceptionally well with shellfish.

Sons of Eden Freya Riesling 2005 ($25)
This is my favorite Aussie Riesling, and I find it resembles a top German Riesling with its strong mineral personality. Full bodied and stony, it possesses bright apple, mineral and pear fruit with bracing, balanced acidity. Perfect by itself or with food, because despite all the fruit, it finishes dry and crisp.

Lou de Louberon Rouge 2005 ($7)
A lovely blend of Grenache and Syrah from Louberon in the Languedoc, this light bodied red is soft and fruit forward and is perfect for sipping in August. Beaujolais move aside!

Domaine Lejeune Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2005 ($12)
This strange appellation is the only red wine in Burgundy that is not 100 percent Pinot Noir. The Pinot is blended with Gamay, the grape of Beaujolais. The Gamay grown in this area around Pommard in 2005 is truly special. Light in body but quite rich in flavor, this is a seriously good summer sipper.

d'Arenberg Cadenzia 2005 ($30)
Australia seems to have invented the right wines for the “barbie,” and I can’t think of anything I would rather serve with barbeque chicken or ribs than this effusively fruity blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Lush, soft and bursting with jammy raspberry and strawberry flavors, this is a truly delicious wine. It even has a plastic stopper instead of a cork so you can open it with your hands and it doesn’t look like a screw cap. Winemaker Chester Osborn has thought of everything.

Jon Genderson, co-owner of Schneider’s on Capitol Hill, writes the monthly “Wine Guys” column for the Hill Rag. He can be reached at 202-543-9300. Schneider’s is located at 300 Massachusetts Ave. NE, or visit the store online at www.cellar.com.


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Wine Guys
Here’s To Your Health
by: Jon Genderson
More Troubles in Bordeaux I reported last month about the difficulties many lesser known Bordeaux chateaus were having selling their wine. Overproduction resulting in mediocre to poor quality has made their wines only appealing to grocery stores and distilleries that turn the swill in to brandy. The French government is actually paying some producers not to make wine. Producers are seeing slow sales for the high priced 2006 vintage and now it appears that the 2007 vintage has been all but wiped out by rain and rot. Torrential rains in May followed by rain in June and July has led to mildew on the leaves, which is now beginning to affect the grapes. In the southern Graves region of Bordeaux, as much as 90 percent of the crop may have been lost. It is unclear what will happen if August brings better weather, but it will certainly be a much reduced crop. Burgundy is OK, so far A cold snap in July thwarted the mildew from affecting Burgundy. Despite this cold weather, the Burgundy vineyards are still ahead of schedule for harvesting due to a very warm spring. Alsace and Cote Rotie Hit by Hail Violent hail storms ripped thru Alsace and Cote Rotie at the end of June causing the destruction of much of the 2007 crop. Vineyard owners in Alsace report damage to vineyards north of Colmar to be between 20 percent and 80 percent. Cote Rotie has lost 50 percent of its crop. Wine is Good for You (like we didn’t know!) Several new studies show that wine benefits circulation and heart health, kidneys, lungs and can slow the gradual descent into dementia. According to new research published in the May 2007 issue of the journal Addiction, scientists at the University of Buffalo found that drinking alcohol is associated with a lower risk of heart attack in women. This is the first study that specifically looks at the drinking behavior of women. Researchers from Brigham and Women's Hospital in Boston have concluded that drinking alcohol in light to moderate amounts is linked to a lower risk of kidney cancer than abstaining, reports The Journal of the National Cancer Institute. Though wine showed a slightly higher level of protection, the study concluded that how much one drinks – not what type of beverage – had a much greater impact on the risk of renal cancer. Those who had roughly a half-glass of wine per day showed a 3 percent lower risk of developing renal cancer, and those who had about a glass of wine per day showed 18 percent lower risk. Those who had 1.5 glasses per day showed 28 percent lower risk. The researchers added that alcohol may help improve insulin sensitivity and work as an antioxidant, thereby clearing out harmful and potentially cancer-causing elements in the organ. However, the researchers warned against consistent, heavier drinking as a way to avoid the risks of renal cancer, since so few of the study's participants were heavy drinkers. A new study, conducted by scientists from the Department of Geriatrics at the University of Bari, in Bari, Italy, found that a drink or two per day may help slow the development of dementia. The research, published in the May 22 issue of the journal Neurology, may provide hope for those at risk of dementia. The researchers reported that light to moderate alcohol consumption can slow the development of dementia by as much as 85 percent. A new study published online in the medical journal Thorax, states that men following a Mediterranean diet that includes the moderate consumption of wine may half their chance of developing lung ailments such as emphysema and bronchitis. To Your Health! Now that you understand how beneficial moderate wine drinking can be for your health, here are some suggestions to enjoy over the hot days of August. La Tordera Rose "Cuvee di Gabri" ($18) This delightful sparkling wine from the Prosecco region of Italy is a beautiful salmon color with an intense bouquet of strawberries. Its bright fruit flavors and crisp acidity make it just perfect for sipping on the deck or patio on a warm, lazy day. Really delicious! Anime Prosecco ($15) Another super-fresh sparkling wine, the Anime Prosecco is round and creamy in the mouth with ripe fruit flavors and a persistent finish. Chateau du Donjon Minervois Rose 2006 ($11) Bright strawberry in color with big, fat, ripe raspberry flavors that slather the tongue in fruit. The soft finish makes it great on it’s own on a warm day, but you can also serve it with salmon, tuna and baked chicken. Thierry Mothe Petit Chablis 2005 ($15) I know you will think I’m crazy, but after many years of research I have concluded that the best wine to have with hard shell crabs is Chablis; the real thing, not something from California or New York State that says “Chablis” on the label. (I know beer is good, too, but please try this.) The Chablis doesn’t have to be Premier or Grand Cru, you just need it be very crisp, light and dry. The Thierry Mothe Petit Chablis fits the bill perfectly. It can also go with shrimp or scallops. Michel Martin Savigny les Beaune Blanc 2005 ($30) A more serious white Burgundy, this Savigny les Beaune Blanc possesses an amazing flavor of spiced apples, clove, ginger and apple pie. This crisp and dry white Burgundy is broad, rich and layered and will go exceptionally well with shellfish. Sons of Eden Freya Riesling 2005 ($25) This is my favorite Aussie Riesling, and I find it resembles a top German Riesling with its strong mineral personality. Full bodied and stony, it possesses bright apple, mineral and pear fruit with bracing, balanced acidity. Perfect by itself or with food, because despite all the fruit, it finishes dry and crisp. Lou de Louberon Rouge 2005 ($7) A lovely blend of Grenache and Syrah from Louberon in the Languedoc, this light bodied red is soft and fruit forward and is perfect for sipping in August. Beaujolais move aside! Domaine Lejeune Bourgogne Passetoutgrain 2005 ($12) This strange appellation is the only red wine in Burgundy that is not 100 percent Pinot Noir. The Pinot is blended with Gamay, the grape of Beaujolais. The Gamay grown in this area around Pommard in 2005 is truly special. Light in body but quite rich in flavor, this is a seriously good summer sipper. d'Arenberg Cadenzia 2005 ($30) Australia seems to have invented the right wines for the “barbie,” and I can’t think of anything I would rather serve with barbeque chicken or ribs than this effusively fruity blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Lush, soft and bursting with jammy raspberry and strawberry flavors, this is a truly delicious wine. It even has a plastic stopper instead of a cork so you can open it with your hands and it doesn’t look like a screw cap. Winemaker Chester Osborn has thought of everything. Jon Genderson, co-owner of Schneider’s on Capitol Hill, writes the monthly “Wine Guys” column for the Hill Rag. He can be reached at 202-543-9300. Schneider’s is located at 300 Massachusetts Ave. NE, or visit the store online at www.cellar.com.